HOW TO TREK PHOKSUNDO LAKE AVOIDING AIR TRAVEL.

Majestic Phoksundo lake,Dolpa.

From traversing Khaptad to Rara National Parks on foot when their were no road connections to enjoying a bumpy ride over the terrific roads in the mountains of remote Dolakha while trekking to Bigu Monastery,from experiencing heavy snowfall in the heights of Dhuchhi Hill on the way to Rara lake to Achilles tendon aching treacherous walk along the dusty,arid rocky outcropping trails of Upper Mustang, its all about my way of life,I enjoying walking a lot.I dare attempt what most people do seating on their cozy beds and making futile plans.Its not a different thought I have,it's a different way I do.Without trying to sound much phony and intriguing myself searching with the most appealing definition of travel,I hereby trotter a cliche based on my true travel 

experiences;those who travel and those who always plan.I made a wise decision choosing the former. Being skeptical to start a journey to the west which is still a mythical world for many of us,I courageously made my mind and set my foots in the Himalayas of Dolpa. This is a story of mere travelers  who,denying their parents' and friends' suggestions,began travelling in the secluded wild west on foot.If someone is interested in ascetic,stark contrast topography and ancient centuries old Trans-Himalayan culture these trek is going to repay all your efforts.

Day 1: Ghorahi-Salyan-Rukum Khalanga


On this very day we began our journey to the land of 52 lakes and 53 hills in a misty morning of Ghorahi,Dang waking up before the sun to catch a bus to Rukum Khalanga. The bus then rolled it's wheels in the hills of Dang and Salyan departing at 7 am,advancing around a distance of 150 kms in about 14 hours and managed to reach Khalanga of Rukum at 8:30 pm. 

Rukum-Salyan Border.

On the way,we managed to make some friends within a couple of hours of talk.We were hosted by Bijay to his home and we had a fine dinner with his family at his house in Musikot. Following a delicious meal,we strolled to district hospital to visit Narayan sir who was a police personnel posted in Rukum District

Jhulneta,Rukum

Hospital and talked to him about our journey and how his help made our day.
It was Laxmi puja of the 5 days long Tihar festival.We enjoyed lightnings,rangoli and even the local Singaru dance.https://youtu.be/9d75l4uv54Q
It was an awesome experience.Although we realized it was a wrong time to venture in any parts of Nepal especially for Nepalese as we have one of the major festival going on,but at the same hour we had a different experience that cannot be made during other times of travel. Bhim and Bijay offered their continuous help throughout our journey.So we don't hesitate to express our gratitude to them.

Early morning view of the beautiful Khalanga bazaar.

Day  2:  Khalanga-Rukumkot-Khalanga

Mt. Sisne outshines the northern sky.

We then made our way early in the morning towards Rukumkot to see the famous lake city. We were again guided by a loyal local who was an ex-army personnel,the same person who happened to be my seat partner on the bus journey from Dang to Rukum. The road to Rukumkot, which is a recently converted district headquarter of the 77th District of Nepal,still unnamed,was one hell of a ride. We had a roller coaster ride on this bumpy road and mind it we were on the jeep roof.However the view was astonishing.The Sano Bheri river and the clustered villages on our way look like it was a sort of painting portrayed in a frame.After 3 hrs of ride we made ourselves comfortable at Rukumkot. We were again welcomed to a local house by the same fellow ex-army man.He showed the famous Kamal lake and took us to his house where he savored us with the Tihar foods and a delicious Dal-bhat. We were again indebted to this great-hearted family.We were a day behind the most important part of Tihar festival that is Bhaitika so with half a heart and refusing his request we made sure we need to depart from Rukumkot and head to Khalnaga where we could find any vehicle to Syarphu lake as our next destination awaits us.So with great turmoil,we were able to catch a tractor to Khalanga and everything was good until when suddenly the wheels of the tractor made it's way on the road. Every organs on my body were in a state of severe ache due to jerky ride but fortunate enough we got ourselves in a Jeep after about 2 hours of painful ride on the tractor.It was already around 10 pm when we were at Khalanga. It was difficulty managing a hotel at this hour in such places.With the help of local police we finally got a room in a renowned hotel in Rukum .That's not the end of story for tonight as the hotel owner apologized that no foods would be served due to the lack of staffs all thanks to the Bhaitika that was due to be celebrated on the following day.

Terrific road seen midway between khalanga and Rukumkot.

Rukumkot, district headquater of Rukum East.

                                            Kamal Daha,Rukumkot

Takura Village along with Chhipridaha,Rukum East

Day 3: Khalanga-Chhinkhet-Syarphu lake

We woke up at 8 am following a sound sleep at the hotel and then headed to local tea house for a fine tea and snakes.We then suddenly planned hiking to Syarphu lake as we were unable to get a Jeep that particular day. Bijay helped us with the directions and way to reach the lake which was around 3-4 hours of walking distance from Salle airport.

Tilicho river makes it's way towards Sano Bheri river.

We had the luck of devil himself when we saw the only jeep that was heading in our directions with vacant seats.After about an hour of ride,we reached Chinkhet (nepali translation meaning paddy fields).We then started our journey along the Tilicho river to head ourselves to Syarphu lake.On the way we saw beautiful waterfalls and paddy fields.We then reached the Syarphu lake at 2:00 pm and then enjoyed the view for more then 2 hours and managed a hotel to stay for the night.The hotel owner also served meat of Blue Sheep which was my first experience.

Day 4: Syarphu lake-Chhinkhet-Aathbiskot

Chinkhet,on the way to Syarphu Lake.

Stucked on the way to Aathbiskot due to flat Tyre of the Jeep.

We had a sound sleep at a-kind-of home stay room .Although the room was a bit messy to manage our belongings but keeping in mind we have to stay there only for a night and next morning before the sun is up and also we had no other options then staying in this place because of this festive seasons,we agreed with much disappointment.We then rose around 6 am from the bed and immediately packed our stuffs and then headed for boating in Syarphu lake.We had a cup of tea with biscuits and then changed our mind not to boat as the first jeep to Aathbiskot would arrive at  around 8 am,so we walked all the way down to Chinkhet,the same place where we started to hike for the lake Syarphu,and reached there around 8:15 am.We made sure with our beloved brothers about the jeep whether they have left Khalanga or not and as their advice we stayed all the day and finally waiting for around 8 hrs on this worthless place with not even good places to see or good hotels to dine around we got ourselves on a Jeep that was already having a lot of troubles in it's tyres and engine.But during these evil hours we managed to bathe ourselves in the banks of Sano Bheri river and also done with the washing.One more hour of waiting again until the jeep got fixed then we rode in the hills of Rukum reaching to an of altitude of around 2200 meters in the dark.With great toils following repeated flat tyres, we were at Aathbiskot around 9:30pm. We requested a local to help us get a hotel as we could nowhere find one in this completely new place.He took us to a place where a presumably teacher by profession but stoned with alcohol helped us with rooms.We were fine with his room but couldn't resist his non-stop delirious speech.I must apologize for my non-gratuitous attitude towards him.

Day 5: Aathbiskot-Tallu-Tribeni-Khadang

Tallu Falls,Tallubagar, Jajarkot.

Next morning he took us to the jeep stand on the other side of the bridge over the Thuli Bheri river on his own.He even introduced us as an engineer to the locals and even to the police officer and a newly elected local leader.It was a hilarious situation. We then caught a Jeep around 7:15 am in the morning however the jeep needed to get fully occupied with passengers including someone hanging by the door until it leaves so, we waited for around 2 hours until which all the seats were covered with passengers and finally it rolled it's wheels around 9:30 am and we had a fine ride up to Tallu. On the way we managed to see a large waterfall (>100 m) following a humble request to the driver.It was really amazing to see such a great fall although their were more than a couples on the way.After reaching Tallu we again crossed a suspension bridge and got ourselves again in Rukum district.We caught a jeep following a delicious egg chow-chow snack around 12:30 pm.The road trip to Tribeni was a memorable one as i had a bad experience of nearly being thrown out of the rear door due to sudden accidental opening of this door while the jeep was struggling to climb on the stone-hump-road. At around 5:30pm we were at the Khadang village and we rushed to Sharma hotel as we already had an idea of this hotel.We reached the hotel with much difficulty as the original name of the hotel was Hotel Robin Sharma and lodge. Eventually we had a fine dinner and then headed for a sleep in a cozy room the hotel owner could provide.


Day 6: Khadang-Tripuraghat-Suligad-Chhepka-Campsite


One of the most hectic day of the entire trek was this day.Waking up with a disturbing alarm at 4:15 am and struggling to cross the most ragged part of the entire Dolpo trek in a single hour of early morning dusk not advisable.We were pretty sure of all the difficulties and turmoils.The roads were under constructions and one could run arse over tit if they ever happen to miss the steps.

A village midway between Tripura and Juphal Airport.

The view was really captivating on the way to Chhepka.

We thought of never making any foolish decisions of trekking in such roads in complete dark hours.I thought how my parents and friends will scoff at the very mention of this path.We finally crossed every challenging roads and made ourselves comfortable at Tripuraghat. We had a fried egg chowchow that was probably the best one in entire trek.We also inquired our destinations and availability of vehicles.Lucky again as soon as we completed our rest and snacks, we got a Jeep at 10 am and headed for Suligad. Around 11 am we reached Suligad, the starting point for Phoksundo lake trekking.Suligad was midway between Tripura and Dunai,district headquarter of Dolpa district.Lying at the junction of  two great rivers Phoksundo and Thulo Bheri ,we observed a funeral procession going on.We then walked in a snail's pace following a rest at Shey-Phoksundo national park office.
It was around 7 pm before we dropped our bags for a stay at the Campsite which was about 1.5 hrs of walking distance from Chhepka.

Day 7: Campsite-Samjana hotel-Boarding-Ringmo Village-back to Campsite

Ferocious Phoksundo River.

The eye-catcher view of the wooden bridge over the Phoksundo river.

We were excited as we were about to observe Phoksundo lake this day.Highly diverse landscapes ranging from barren dusty ragged peaks to perinneal greenery along the banks of Phoksundo river,all that are required for a memorable trekking scores were present here.One can not resist with their cameras
 taking multiple captures,so do I.We were much pleased to have experienced centuries old culture at the Ringmo village lying on the western bank of lake.The monastery on the southern side of the lake is another attraction offering the great view of the lake with Mt.Kanjirowa in the northern sky,all thanks to the clear day.From an eye catching crystal clear pure water from the glacial melts to the seasonal mountains peaks all looks really captivating.After enjoying to the eternity,we planned staying somewhere down may be in Chhepka,so we literally slided all the way down in a slippery trails.I regulary sneaked backwards to see as far long as the lake could be viewed with the setting sun casting it's colors in the lakes and mountains.At around 6 pm we were at the Boarding.We again rushed all the way down to the same campsite and made ourselves their at 8 pm.The same humble people were ready to help us their with the same smile and excitements.We then warmed our beds following some light 
snacks their.

Second largest waterfall of Nepal on the way to Phoksundo Lake.

Ringmo Village.

The view of the Phoksundo lake from Ringmo Village.

Campsite,Chhepka

Day 8: Campsite-Chhepka-
Suligad-Dunai-juphal

This early morning we woke up with the sounds of mountain birds and the ferociously flowing Phoksundo river.We were served warm Tibetan tea at the camp.we then prepared to depart as we had a destiny of reaching Juphal Airport by Evening.At the cost of 2 hours we reached Chhepka.Then heading straight down to Kagani Village took us about 2 hours and then finally we made into Suligad around 11:30 am following an easy walk along the Phoksundo river. We then headed for Dunai which took an extra hour of walk and then we enjoyed the town life after so many days.We had some mouthwatering snacks and then waited for the jeep to travel to Juphal Airport.With a furlong hope of getting an airplane ticket we made our way to juphal airport. 

Prayers are well displayed in stones;Chhepka.

We made there at 6 pm and then headed straightly  to the most popular Mt.Putha hotel in the hope of getting plane  tickets.We were shocked to hear the fact that many passengers were stranded due to heavy tourists influx and end of vacations for many Nepalese students.Disheartened and feeling marooned we decided to leave the plane for the needy ones and then followed the same way to Aathbiskot to return home via foot. 

Dunai with the river Thuli Bheri.

Day 9:Juphal-Tripuraghat-Khadang

The next morning following cumbersome struggle for tickets we already lost 3/4 hours of time in the fading hopes for the ticket.It was already 11:30 am when we picked our bags and headed to Tripuraghat. With sorrowful hearts and pathetic generalized body aches,we travelled all the way to Triphuraghat and then to Khadang and stayed an overnight there.

A typical house in Juphal.

Crossing numerous suspension bridges is a must here.

Be prepared for the worst road ever;in between Khadang and Tripuraghat.

Setting sun enriching the beauty of Thuli Bheri river on the way to Khadang.

Day10: Khadang-Tribeni-Tallu-Khagenkot-Aathbiskot-Chinabagar

We didn't hesitate to make friends.

After waking up at 7 
am,we packed our belongings as usual and started to walk towards Tribeni. It took us more than 2 hours on reaching Tribeni. We didn't have our breakfast as we were in rush. We then caught a jeep that was the first one to arrive in Tribeni at 9:30am.
For sure we couldn't wait for a second one due to time constraints, we cancelled our tea orders at the local tea shop.After riding for about 3 hours we reached Tallu.Crossing the bridge again,we were the first one to reach Tallu bagar on the Jajarkot side of the bridge in the hope of getting seats on the next jeep that was in queue for Khagenkot.We had some light snacks following booking our seats. Again about 3 hours of ride we were at Khagenkot,same old place where we again crossed the same bridge to Aathbiskot,Rukum and then headed to Jeep stop on the other side of the river crossing second bridge in a row to catch a jeep to Chinabagar. Oh yes i cannot forget the large enough carnival of Aathbiskot where we had some chatpate and then enjoyed stage peformances by the local artists on the go .We also had chapatti at the jeep stand after we collected our tickets to Chinabagar. Eventually changing multiple vehicles, we were at Chinabagar, place where we could finally catch a single bus to either Surkhet or Nepalgunj. It was already a barely visible dark when we were at Chinabagar. We then strolled in this tiny little town and then made ourselves comfortable at the hotel after a habitual scheduling of tickets for the following day to Kohalpur so we could further catch any buses to reach our respective homes at any time.

Tallu Bagar,Rukum. 

Notes:
Day 1 :Dang-Salyan-Rukum Khalanga
Day 2:Rukum Khalanga-Chhinkhet-Aathbiskot
Day 3:Aathbiskot-Tallu Bagar-Tribeni-Khadang
Day4: Khadang-Tripuraghat-Suligad-kageni
Day 5:Kageni-Chhepka-Boarding
Day 6:Boarding Phoksundo lake-Ringmo
Day 7:Ringmo-Chhepka
Day 8:Chhepka-Suligad-Dunai-Juphal
Day 9:Fly back to Nepalgunj.