Rara- trekkers dream paradise in Nepal

I don’t know what keeps drawing me back to the mountains year after year. Although being a medical student I am almost busy with the hectic schedule in the college however I usually manage some days so I can savor the present that the nature has gifted me. As usual the number of days and the number of crews were still unfixed but my instinct always provoked me to explore the untouched and unexposed Western part of Nepal, so I say the location was fixed. Sitting at the corner of my bed at my sweet home, resting over my pillow and pondering the gaze of the great Rara lake became my leisure activity. Finally the day arrived in my calendar when I, including my three other friends, packed their necessary materials and started the journey to freedom. Starting from  Butwal, we took a night bus to Attariya, Dhangadi and from there a local bus took us to Silgadi, Doti on the next day. It was 3rd day away from the home when we started the trekking. Filled with the ponderous energy and enthusiasm, we started our trekking .Our first destination was the Khaptad National Park. Today we were destined to reach Bijpani. On the first leg of our journey the creek and the sound of birds chirping put a spring in our step. Ahead of pace and moving a little too fast we guys were setting ourselves up for a hard last leg.

Ascending the steep hills from Jhingrana made some of my friends disappointed. Moreover the disappointment converted into rage when the blue sky above us started gathering dark clouds and began to shower with the thunder and lightning. There were no help centers although we were inside the national park premises. With a great toil we finally reached Bijpani in the dark.

After the dinner at the chill and freezing temperature of Bijpani, we were expecting a sound and homely sleep at this place. Although we were early to bed but I couldn’t gather a sleep until midnight because of the lack of the necessary beddings at the hotel which was under maintenance by the khaptad National Park. Early in the morning we guys were astonished to see the hotel which was nested between the Pine trees. The sight of early life in the forest was a sight to behold. We didn’t waste our time as we were planning to reach Khaptad by the midday, so after a light breakfast with the hot tea served at the best time with best price(we were expecting highere rates), we packed our items and set on for Khatpad. The journey from bijpani to khaptad was joyful. We passed through pink rhododendron forest and the nigalo forest where many birds including Spiny Babbler reside.

At midday we managed to reach Khaptad. There were small mountains with open grassy meadows and the alpine forest at the end of the mountains. It was named Patans by the locals. Frankly speaking we were dreaming and indeed expecting Khaptad to be far better than we saw. So I say we were once bewildered whether this was our destination khaptad or not? But when we walked at the banks of the brooks running at the heart of the patans ,passed through some holy sites, we finally realized it was Khaptad. The short journey to the Khaptad baba ashram was awesome. Then I started liking Khaptad . Finally it was a tickle pink experience.. Now it was the turn to sort out khaptad lake. Situated in the middle of pine forest it was natural serine lake hosting number of birds, indeed a natural sanctuary for wild birds, still virgin in its freshness as no human invasion was possible. We were proud of ourselves as we had accomplished first part of the trekking.

It was the time to search for a cheap hotel as the day was about to end so the near place we could get a shelter was Shingdi village almost 3 hrs. Walk from Khaptad. It was a irksome trek down with beautiful views of rhododendron flowers being the only solace to calm our anxiety. We were fortunate as I caught a pageant who showed us the village and finally we landed in a tea shop. The thunderous sky was also thwarting our way. So, after all of my friends were collected one by one, we planned for the homestay. We experienced a warm homestay at this tea shop. I still remember the food we were served at this tea shop. It was one of the worst food we had during our entire trekking.

Next day, we woke before the sunrise and as usual  started journey after backpacking for our next destination rara lake. Today as per the schedule we planned to reach Martadi, headquarter of Bajura district. The last bus we could catch up in the morning was timed to leave at 11 am from Dhap bazaar, which was almost 6-7 hrs. walk from Shingdi vdc. So, we were hurrying and descending at the maximum speed. We applied our maximum endeavor that was left with us as we didn’t get enough foods the night before to annex with the remaining energy for trekking our way down to Dhap bazaar. At first we were really enjoying the cool temperature of the dawn but when the scorching sun caught us at the rocky and stony trail, our yatra became horrible. We lost our energy. We finally reached Dhap bazzar at noon.

No buses no any other vehicles. Some friends got furious until their eyes got widened when they saw a tractor .First we had fine movements as the road was pitched but when the tires of the tractor rolled on the rocky road which was under construction then we were thrown ups and down as if we were having a ride on the roller coaster track. It was one hell of a drive. We were cautious until we reached Martadi bazzar at around 4 hrs of this hell drive. We looked like aliens. Martadi although a small town was quite busy as the tradesman from nearby districts like mugu, humla, etc. come to shop their necessary items. We stayed for two nights at this place at the most luxurious hotel available at this place. One of our friends had to stop his trekking at this place and returned home.

Every one of us gathered our strength and started our journey towards the lake. The strenuous journey to jhunghala pul was in addition tormented by sweltering sunrays, although I had a nice companion with a shepherd boy who was heading towards mugu. Mugu Karnali flowing with the rapids provided a solace to our journey. The boy took us to the best country tea shop where we were served with the local millet chapatti. We had swimming in the Mugu Karnali river. Now ,we were already in the Mugu district after crossing the Jhungala bridge linking Bajura and Mugu district.

The landscapes were breathtaking with the fine view of the Mugu Karnali and the variety of the vulture species we encountered. With great toil on the difficulty rusty way , we arrived at Khatyad vdc where we first saw khatyad river, the major outlet of the great rara lake. The way to Ratapani was not much difficult. Reluctantly we headed to Ratapani village ahead of threatening rain clouds. But unfortunately we had to stop around 4 pm because we were challenged by the weather.

Next day we started our journey to Rara lake, waving goodbye to the beautiful Ratapani village. Ratapani from my view was comparatively big and developed in the undeveloped Mugu district. there was high school too in this village.

Eventually it was the time to view the nitty-gritty part of the trekking. Yes! it was Rara, really enormous and incredible lake. Even the simple glimpse of my eye made me sentimental cause I was going to lose that part of Rara. The first view was really astounding. My mouth left open for more than half a minute. The clear, serine and pristine mountains, the incredible reflection of the true colors of the sky, mountains, and the surroundings in the frequently changing colors of the water was the most beautiful part to reminiscence. 

We had a really hard time during lodging at outskirts of Rara. There was a single hotel inside this park and there were more than 40 person on the same day. We were lucky enough for we got enough time to manage a tent for three of us. I still remember debating with the captain of Nepalese army regarding the positive and negative impacts of developments near Rara lake while we were camp firing near the shore of Rara lake. Although we had to compromise for the dinner, our turn for the dinner arrived at 11pm when I had already fallen asleep. But the night we spent on the tent at the shore of the lake was comparable to spending the royal night at Burj al Arab.

Early in the morning before the sun rose we were ready to see the Rara once again as we were still hungry to savor its beauty. We wrote an application to the Nepalese army for granting us an opportunity to boat around Rara. 

Rara was nirvana to all the nature lovers. The view was so alluring that it was so difficult to wave goodbye to Rara. But keeping on mind the busy schedule, we were obliged to bid a farewell to rara lake. We then descended to Talcha airport in the hope of getting flights to either Surkhet or Nepalgunj. The airport was still under construction; still a small downpour would cause the cancellation of both the arrival and departure of the planes at this airport. Moreover, legions of passengers were stranded since more than a week as the number of flights were limited due to the bad weather. So, we rested and stayed at the local lodge for 2 days. One cannot forget the amazing panoramic views of the enormous peaks seen through the Talcha airport. We also visited Gamgadi, headquarter of Mugu district, which was 2 hrs. walk from Talcha. I also remember surfing the slowest internet ever and having special chow Mein made from the local resources.

On the third day of our stay at the lodge here at Talcha , we finally decided  not to wait for the planes. So, again we backpacked and started to walk. We guys hiked on. We were making excellent pace, then all of the sudden the trail ended. Later on we discovered that we had taken the wrong way. The trail we hiked was actually the road which was under construction. We appeared like fools at that time. We passed through Ghurchi lagna pass where we first experienced the snowfall in life. It was the 1st days of the year 2069. We were extremely happy and played in the snow at first but as the fall augmented, we started panicking. We were almost frozen and we decided to stay on the nomads on the way. We then stayed on the warmth of the fire and enjoyed the evening thereafter.

We were astonished to see the snowcapped mountains and the pine trees nearby when we planned for the departure early next morning. We arrived at Bhulbhule photographing and walking on the snowy way. Now we had already steeped into a new district Jumla. We continued our journey and passed through places like Chautha, Sinja valley, Gothejeula. Sinja ,the place of origin of the Khas Language from which the Nepali language had origin. It was on the bank of the river Jumla Karnali. We caught a tripper from Ghotejela around 3 pm. It was one hell on earth drive to Mangma. With great turmoil and torment on the deadly road. We reached magma ghat. Now we were in Kalikot district. We spent two nights at mingma ghat. This stay was not interesting as we were bound to stay at for unknown days because of the current strike at the Karnali highway. Eventually on the 3rd day we caught a bus to Surkhet and it took almost 18 hrs. to reach surkhet. It was a pain in ass drive. Gripping the steering wheel with his one hand, our driver blasted his horn at the bus heading straight for us on the narrowing, winding road. While I held my breath, the other bus swerved to the inside, passing so close I could conversant with my fellow tourists. Focusing on the conversation and tight holding the seat kept me from worrying whether our bus still had all the four tires on a road that dropped off steeply to the Karnali river below. During this harrowing bus ride I sometimes wished I’d listened to my parents’ idea of not travelling in such places.